In the process of browsing, I came across this traveler's account of his journey east around 1869, which is colorful as well as informative especially on pages 5-11. Of particular note is what he tells us concerning the Church of Saint Sophia at Trebizond, since it is at this time it became a mosque and also all its frescoes were scraped away including the frescoes which Finlay notes in his travels not some ten years before.