Until half a century ago, the 'sky' Kingdom of Bhutan, in the Eastern Himalayas, remained a mystery to the outside world. This serene and almost mystical mountain kingdom, cradled between its neighbours of Tibet and China to the north and Indian territories of Assam and West Bengal to the south, Arunachal Pradesh to the east and Sikkim to the west, includes subtropical savannahs, dense conifer forests, and is bordered by the unforgiving Himilayas guarding its eastern approaches. The kingdom has a total area of approximately 47,000 square kilometers and spreads between meridians 89°E and 93°E, and latitudes 27°N and 29°N. Bhutan's isolation has helped to protect its culture and stunning natural beauty. While Bhutan does have its dark side, there are still many reasons it is referred to as the 'Last Shangri-la' and the 'crown jewel' of the Himalayas. Exploring Bhutan, one can imagine oneself transported hundreds of years back in time.
Shrouded for centuries in the misty serenity of the great Himalayas, the Land of the Thunder Dragon has developed its own distinct civilization. Bhutan is a country with a stunning and wide variety of flora and fauna, amazing architecture, ancient traditions, impressive monasteries, and a deeply revered king who thinks nothing of wandering about the countryside unescorted and inviting citizens back to his palace for afternoon teas. It is a remarkably friendly country filled with people who are custodians of a uniquely colourful culture. Here Buddhism is a natural way of life and the whole country breathes peace, tranquillity, enchantment, joy and age-old wisdom. Bhutan is a land where citizens always wear the traditional national costume, where the Sarken Wildlife Sanctuary - a 650 sq km (253 sq mi) mountain range in eastern Bhutan, is uniquely, the only reserve in the world specifically created to protect the habitat of the
yeti, where giant protective penises are painted on the walls of most houses, where the people are absolutely mad about archery and cricket, where hot chillies don't just spice a meal but are the whole dish (the national dish is "ema datshi" - ema means chilli and datshi is cheese) and where "Gross National Happiness" is deemed more important, and more satisfying than Gross National Product.
Throughout Bhutan, the country's mythology is expressed in many different ways. Most striking is the name its inhabitants have for the kingdom, "Druk Yul" literally meaning 'land of the thunder dragon' in Bhutanese mythology. The fierce dragon is represented on Bhutan's national flag in white and there are many expressions of and references to the dragon within the kingdom. For example, Bhutan’s kings are known as the 'Druk Gyalpo' the dragon kings. A Buddhist monk is said to have heard thunder when consecrating the Tatksang Dzong, Tiger’s Nest monastery near the city of Paro, which was first built in 1692. The monk is said to have mistook a roll of thunder for a dragon’s voice proclaiming Buddhist truths. The name Druk Yul, the ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’ has stuck since.
Bhutan comprises twenty districts or 'dzongkhag' a word that is both plural and singular. They are - Bumthang, Chukha, Dagana, Gasa, Haa, Lhuntse, Mongar, Paro, Pemagatshel, Punakha, Samdrup Jongkhar, Samtse, Sarpang, Trashigang, Trashiyangtse, Trongsa, Tsirang, Wangdue Phodrang, Zhemgang and the Bhutanese capital city territory of Thimphu.
Prehistory:
Archaeological finds suggest the mountain valleys of Bhutan have been inhabited for several thousand years. The Bhutanese themselves believe the Lhopu (a small tribe in south-west Bhutan who speak a Tibeto-Burman language) to be the original aboriginal inhabitants of the country, who were then subsequently displaced by the arrival of Tibetans of Mongolian descent. The Ngalop, the ethnic group that comprises the majority of the population concentrated in the central and western valleys, are clearly related to the Tibetans to the north, sharing physical, linguistic, and cultural traits, indicating that at some unknown time in the past a significant migration of Tibetans arrived over the Himalayan mountain passes to establish the base of the present population. Bhutan was inhabited as early as 2000 BC. Stone tools, weapons and large stone structures from that period have been unearthed. Historians suggest that the state of Lhomon (meaning ‘Southern Darkness’) or Monyul (meaning ‘Dark Land’ believed to be inhabited by aboriginals of Bhutan known as Monpa) may have existed here between 500 BC and 600 AD. Ancient Bhutanese and Tibetan chronicles also mention the names of Lhomon Tsendenjong (meaning ‘Sandalwood Country’) and Southern Mon (meaning ‘Country of Four Gateways’ or Lhomon Khashi). Little is known about ancient Bhutan or the early history of the nation as most of the records about it were destroyed in the major fire in 1827 in Punakha, which was the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Bhutan. By the 10th century, the heavy influence of religion on Bhutan's political scenario was plainly visible. Mongol and Tibetan overlords in the area embraced various sub-sects of Buddhism and, as Mongols saw their decline in the 14th century, the competition between these sub-sects to lead the political and religious environment of Bhutan escalated. By the 16th century, Drukpa sub sect emerged as the clear winner and its supremacy was established in the country.
Arrival of Tantric Buddhism:
Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rimpoche, is usually credited with bringing Tantric Buddhism to Bhutan, but two rare sites representing an earlier influence predate him. Kyichu in Paro and Jambey in Bumthang were built in 659 AD, a century or so ahead before Guru Rimpoche's arrival, by the quasi-legendary King of Tibet Songtsen Gampo. In the 8th century the Indian Guru Padmasambhava arrived in Bhutan, bringing Tantric Buddhism. He established a number of temples and monasteries, including the famous Taktshang monastery built high on a cliff face above the Paro valley and Kurjey Lhakhang in Bumthang. This is the final resting place of the remains of the first three kings of Bhutan. Also, a large tree behind one of the temple buildings is believed to be a terma ('hidden treasure') that was left there by Guru Padmasambhava.
Bhutan emerges as a country:
Until the early 1600s, Bhutan existed as a patchwork of minor warring fiefdoms until unified by the Tibetan lama and military leader The Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. Escaping political foes in Tibet he arrived in Bhutan in 1616 and initiated a program of fortification and military consolidation, overseeing the construction of impressive dzongs or fortresses such as Simtokha Dzong which guards the entrance to Thimphu valley. An insightful leader, he used cultural symbols as well as military force to establish a Bhutanese national identity, including the initiation of a number of sacred dances to be performed in the annual tsechu festivals. The Shabdrung also established the dual system of government by which control of the country was shared between a spiritual leader (the Je Khempo) and an administrative leader (the Desi Druk), a polity which exists in modified form to this day. After the Shabdrung's death, infighting and civil war eroded the power of the shabdrung for the next 200 years until 1885, when the Penlop of Trongsa, Ugyen Wangchuck gained an upper hand over rival forces and sought to cultivate ties with the British in India.
Treaties with Britain:
Although subject to periodic Tibetan invasions from the north, Bhutan has retained continuous autonomy since its founding by the Shabdrung. In the early 1700s, the Bhutanese invaded the kingdom of Cooch Behar to the south, placing it under Bhutanese suzerainty. In 1772 the Cooch Behari appealed to the British East India Company who joined with the Behari in driving the Bhutanese out and attacking Bhutan itself in 1774. A peace treaty was concluded in which Bhutan pulled back to its pre-1730 borders. The peace was not to hold, however, and border conflicts with the British were to continue for the next hundred years including the Duar War (1864-1865), fought over control of the Bengal Duars. The 'Duars' constitute a lowland forest belt along the junction between the foothills of the Himalayas to the north and the North Bengal Plain region of the Lower Ganges (Ganga) River Plain to the south.
Civil wars:
The 1870s and 1880s were marked by civil war between the rival power centers of the Paro and Trongsa valleys. In 1885 Ugyen Wangchuck, the penlop (governor) of Trongsa, gained control of the country and ended the civil war, aided by support from the British (the penlop of Paro being aligned with the Tibetans).
Establishment of the monarchy:
Under British influence a monarchy was formally established on December 17th, 1907 with Ugyen Wangchuck as the First King of Bhutan. This day is celebrated in today as National Day of Bhutan. Three years later a treaty was signed whereby the country became a British protectorate. The monarchy initially had to work to gain legitimacy against the machinations of their opponents who promoted the reincarnation of the Shabdrung as the rightful ruler of Bhutan. The issue came to a head in 1931 when the Shabdrung made an appeal to Mahatma Gandhi to terminate the Wangchuck dynasty, after which the Shabdrung was assassinated by pro-royalty agents.
End of absolute rule:
Surprisingly, the 3rd and 4th kings of Bhutan both promoted the elimination of their own absolute powers over the objections of the National Assembly. Beginning in 1969 and lasting until his death in 1972, the Third King of Bhutan ended his veto power over the National Assembly. Upon his untimely death, the national assembly gave back the veto power to the king's son, now the Fourth King of Bhutan, who later followed in his father's noble footsteps by convincing the assembly in 1998 to again formally end the absolute veto power of the king, teaching that it was better for the future of the country that his powers be circumscribed by theirs.
Emergence from isolation:
Under the direction of Bhutan's third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, Bhutan adopted a policy of gradual exposure to the outside world. Bhutan gained United Nations recognition as a sovereign country in 1971. Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king in the line, ascended to the throne in 1972 at age 17 upon the death of his father. His coronation in June 1974 was the occasion for inviting a select number of diplomats and guests from around the world to the isolated kingdom, marking the beginning of regular (if modest) interaction with outside visitors. The fourth king showed great skill in steering his country towards 21st century modernity while preserving the distinctive Bhutanese cultural with its roots in the 17th century. On 14 December 2006, the King Jigme Singye Wangchuk, abdicated and transferred the throne to the current incumbent, his son, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck who was officially crowned on 6 November 2008. The new king began his reign by overseeing the democratization of his country stating that it was the responsibility of this generation for Bhutan to ensure the success of democracy.
This deeply spiritual land is home to a unique identity, derived essentially from a fertile religious and cultural heritage. Bhutan brims with myth and legend. As a befitting testimony, a great Buddhist heritage of over 2000 monasteries and 10,000 monuments dot its peaceful open space and regal mountains. An ambience of near sacred tranquility permeates the land, fostering an environment of spiritual affluence that has shaped the foundation of Bhutanese life. The Bhutanese have deliberately and zealously safeguarded and preserved their rich culture and traditions, its ancient way of life, in all its aspects. And it is perhaps one of the world’s last strongholds of unspoiled wilderness and a safe home to such rarities as the Royal Bengal/Bhutanese tiger, one horned rhino, Asian elephant, the beautiful binturong, the dholes, the rare golden langur, the illusive clouded leopard, leopard cats, red pandas, the golden takin, blue sheep, marmot, the Tibetan wolf, antelope and Himalayan musk deer, the sloth and black bears, and the the goral and serow. It is a part of the earth that represents, a rarity in this world... an almost fabled realm.
