The Dornogovi region in the eastern Gobi is near the beginning of the great Asian steppe which extends from Manchuria to eastern Europe, and was once under the sea. Rocky ground, short mountains, flat plains and small lakes and ponds, many of them salty, make up much of the landscape. The highest elevation is Bogd, some 1700 meters above sea level. The summers aren't as hot as one might expect in a desert, the highs depend on the elevation, but it is terribly cold in the winter, with January temperatures dipping as low as -28C.

There is a notable lack of trees and shrubs throughout all of the Dornogovi, though south of Ulaanbaatar there are places where grasses flourish. What little precipitation there is in the Dornogovi falls in the summer and the land is exposed to the strong winds which blow from the west and northwest, lifting great clouds of dust which leave the visitor confronted with the vista of a barren waste of rock and salty sand. Fresh water is at a premium in this region, but the ancient trade routes with China which cross the land are still used today. Still, there is life in the Dornogovi, a surprising variety of flora and fauna, and good grazing for wild and domestic livestock in the central and western parts of the region, though this is threatened by overgrazing by the herds of the nomads which make up much of the sparse population here.

While you're here, visit Huduu Aral, the site of the palace of Genghis Khan which was completed in 1240 and mentioned in the Secret History of the Mongols. A monument to Genghis Khan was erected here in 1990. You'll want to stop by Burdene Bulag, an oasis which has long been held sacred due to the fabled curative powers of the sand for kidney problems. You can also explore the ruins of the nearby Khamaryn Khiid monastery which was founded by Danzanravzhaa, a 19th century Buddhist leader, educator, writer, poet, painter and humanitarian who was known as the Wrathful Noble Saint of the Gobi.

Learn more about Danzanravzhaa:
Noyon Xutagt Danzanravzhaa
Danzanravjaa


Before you travel on to the Alashan Plateau, you might want to make a side trip into the Dundgovi, which is located to the northwest of the Dornogovi. This region is the geographic center of Mongolia and is steppe and semi-desert. There are many springs and small lakes, and a varied population of flora and fauna.

Of special interest are the are large dunes and ancient graves at Uush Mahkhan which are thought to pre-date Genghis Khan. There is a rock here which bears a thirty line poem inscribed in 1626 in ancient Mongolian script by Prince Tsogt Taij, the last known descendant of Genghis Khan.

The mineral waters of the Khalzan Uuul Spring are said to cure gallstones, and liver and digestive problems. The water has a sour taste, which might be due to the presence of carbonic gas and "radioactivity". Take your chances with a drink! If you live, there are more monastery ruins in the vicinity - Barlim Khiid on the north bank of the Ongiin Gol River, and the Khutagt Khiid on the south. The north bank monastery at one time had over one thousand lamas in residence.

Kharaat Uul Mountain rises from a plain and is visited by the local inhabitants on the 15th of the lunar middle autumn month in order to get weather predictions for the coming winter. This forecast is supposed to be very accurate. Some scholars think that Kharaat Uul is the Kharkhalzan Mountain mentioned in the 'Secret History of Mongols'.


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