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* M. Fabius Furius
My observations on the sights of Rome
October 20 , 2011
100 Copies Sold Posted at 22:00 EST
Four years after its initial publication, the City Guide: Roma has reached one hundred readers! This delightful milestone has been reached at a time when the latest updates have been added to the sights of Rome.

You can get your own copy of the City Guide on a series of scrolls or in one bound volume.

March 6 , 2011
City Guide: Roma Posted at 15:00 EST
Rome is truly the greatest city in the world. The diversity of wonders here will amaze and entertain any visitor for weeks, from the ornate temples of the gods to the stunning works of engineering that mark a Roman city. Our residents delight in the bounteous variety of food stalls and shopping venues; revel in the range of entertainment at amphitheaters, libraries, and public parks; and participate in civic life at the great buildings of state.

In celebration of Rome's 250th property, this all new edition of the City Guide has been prepared for citizens and visitors. Recent additions to the City's sights include the Arx, a walking tour of the Sacra Via, the repaved Via Flaminia, a temple, an auguraculum, the state mint, new public conveniences, a calendar of sacred events, two cultural centers, and more. Rome is truly the jewel of the world!

The City Guide: Roma contains descriptions of all the highlights to see in the capital of the world. Available on a series of scrolls or one bound volume.

January 3 , 2010
City Guide: Roma Posted at 16:00 EST

City Guide: Roma
by M. Fabius Furius

This guide is an introduction to AW Rome by a citizen who has visited each location mentioned. All opinions expressed below are subjective and non-official.
Caveat lector!

This guide does not currently review villas, unfinished properties, or domus dwellings. Certain properties strike the author as particularly worth visiting because of their design, special features, or strong informational content. These sites are indicated with a special mark of a golden dolphin. Golden Dolphin gif

Introduction to Rome

Rome is the oldest and largest city in Ancient Worlds. Historically, Rome was founded in 753 BC, and established as a republic in 509 BC. At that time, Roman territory covered 800 square kilometers. By the end of the Republic, all of Italy was Roman territory, and Rome ruled several provinces and associated states. By the early years of the empire, Rome had around five million free citizens and perhaps two to three million slaves. The empire at the beginning of the 1st century AD is estimated to have had at least 60 million inhabitants within its boundaries. Rome is truly the great center of empire, and the City’s sights reflect this magnificence.

Golden Dolphin gif
A map showing the Regiones of Rome provides easy-to-navigate links to each district’s home site.

There are eight districts to the capital. The color code shown in the titles below will be used throughout the rest of the guide for easy reference. Each Regio in Rome has its own introductory page with informative historical and topographic notes that help visitors become acquainted with its unique character. The hyperlinks below open the district introduction pages.

Visitor Information

Government Services

    Praefectura Urbana and Porticus Tellurensis, Esquiline -- the offices of the City Praefect and other magistrates are open for citizen business on all legal workdays. Public notices are displayed at the Porticus.
    Praefecta Urbana, Subura -- this satellite office of the City’s Praefect maintains a roster of the current district leaders and boards for job listings throughout the city.
    Aqua Claudia, Caelian -- brings fresh mountain spring water to residents in the southern districts of Rome. Apply now for piped connections.
    Aqua Marcia: Castellum Divisiore, Subura -- maintains fresh water distribution in the Subura district. Apply to the curator aquarum for service connections.
    Cloaca Maxima: Crypta Suburae, Subura -- provides drainage and sewer service in the Subura. Contact the inspector’s office to report a sewer problem.
    Cursus Publicus, Forum -- headquarters of the network of couriers and transport wagons maintained by the imperial administration.

Getting Around

    Via Flaminia, Campus Martius -- the main thoroughfare across the Campus is the beginning of the great road north to Ariminium.
    Summa Sacra Via & Sacra Via, Forum -- Rome’s oldest street connects the Palatine hill to the Forum.
    Scalae Gemoniae, Capitoline -- this public stairway between the Forum and the Arx has been the scene of several ghastly deaths.
    vicus Iugarius, Forum -- this main street skirting the base of the Capitoline hill connects the central Forum of Rome to the Tiber docks and the area of the Forum Holitorium.
    vicus Laci Fundi, Quirinal -- the narrow street which connects the central Forum to the Alta Semita road crossing the Quirinal hill.
    Argiletum, Subura -- the main thoroughfare of the Subura lined with shops of craftsmen.
    vicus Tellurensi, Esquiline -- this curving street in the upscale Carinae district contains the offices of the praefectus urbi.
    vicus Capitis Africae and vicus Cyclopis, Caelian -- these adjoining streets cross the western side of the Caelian hill to connect the area of the Flavian Amphitheater to the Porta Metrovia gate in the city wall.

Public Safety

    Aventine Collegium, Aventine -- home of the Aventine Vigiles, keeping order in their own way. Applications accepted at the Collegium offices for those who have what it takes.
    Cohors V Vigilum, Caelian -- headquarters of the Vigiles of the Caelian Hill and Porta Capena districts. New recruits for the watch are trained at the Southside Fire Academy here.
    Carcer, Forum -- Rome’s ancient prison has hosted ordinary criminals and several famous prisoners, including Jugurtha, King of Numidia.

News and Event Information

    Golden Dolphin gif Acta Diurna -- contains news and articles from around the worlds of AW. Check listings for current festivals and events.

Health

    Thermae Novatianae, Subura -- new baths complex on the Vicus Patricius on the Viminal Hill.
    Thermas Syres et Decianas, the “S&D Baths,” Aventine -- located on the Vicus Sibani Salientis, near the Fountain.
    Lacus Iuternae, Forum -- the fountain and pool fed by a spring of pure water. A shrine of Iuturna is set into the wall around the basin.
    Meta Sudans, Forum -- this unusual fountain in front of the Amphitheatrum Flavium marks the turning point for triumphal processions to enter the Sacra Via.
    Cati Fons and Lacus Fundanus, Quirinal -- a natural spring here has supplied water to the surrounding neighborhood for generations.
    Golden Dolphin gif Forica Suburae, Subura -- the public latrines on the Subura minor are a place to learn the latest gossip of the district.

Legal Help

    Casa Advocatus, Forum -- legal offices and advice on Roman law available to citizens with cases before the courts.

Business Services

    Port Authority of Rome, Aventine -- offers a listing service for businesses in Rome’s regiones and the province of Italy to advertise to Romans.
    The Fauces of Minerva, Forum -- auction hall and exhibition space for the Bank of the Furii. Located in the vicus Iugarius.

Settling In

Currency Exchange, Banking

    Argentarius Furius, Forum -- services include currency exchange, bills of exchange, loans, debt payments, and deposit accounts. Your personal service bank in Rome.

Accommodations

    Insula Furiana on vicus Iugarius, Forum -- apartments, suites, and taberna space for rent in central Roma.
    Insula Popillia, Forum -- this three story building on the Sacra Via leases apartments and rooms. Located between the Fornix Fabianus and the Temple of the Penates.
    Tenant House No. 1, Aventine -- offers inexpensive accommodation for those seeking lodgings without too many questions asked.

Dining

    Bacchus Taverna, Subura -- relaxed neighborhood tavern serving wine with a menu of appetizers, soup, and sausages.
    Escae Roma, Forum – home of the Dormouse DeLuxe Burger. In addition to the main dining room, the Subura Café, the She-Wolf Milk Bar, and the Purple Pub are also on the premises. Located under the Temple of Saturn.
    Golden Dolphin gif Libera’s Thermopolium, Aventine -- offers a changing selection of fresh dishes and fine dining. Reservations recommended.
    The Loving Cup Caupona, Aventine -- a place to relax with friends, fine wine, and appetizers while enjoying musical entertainment. Located on Vicus Portae Trigeminae across from the Temple of Juno Regina.
    Sign of the Owl, Aventine -- a friendly, neighborhood tavern with fine wine and entertainment.

What to See and Do

Sightseeing Suggestions for the First Time Visitor

SPQR

Assemblies

    The Curia, Forum -- offers tours and historical overview of the Senate house.
    Golden Dolphin gif Curia Calabra, Capitoline -- the traditional point of assembly of the Roman people to hear religious announcements. A calendar of Rome’s religious events is maintained here under the care of the Pontiffs.
    The Saepta (Furia), Campus Martius -- Rome’s ancient meeting place for voting by the comitia centuriata. The restored voting enclosure is used for voting, public assemblies, and exhibitions. Tour of the Saepta and neighboring Diribitorium.

Courts and Offices

    The Regia, Forum -- built by Numa and the current office of the Pontifex Maximus. The building also houses the hastae and ancilia of Mars in the sacrarium Martis. Closed to the public.
    Domus Publica, Forum -- the official residence of the rex sacrorum, closed to the public.
    Basilica Aemilia, Forum -- an elegant building considered one of the most beautiful in Rome. Shops line the portico along the Forum side.
    Forum Augustum, Forum -- the second of the imperial fora provides extended meeting facilities for the courts of law.
    Forum Pacis, Forum -- the forum built by Vespasian.
    Forum Traiani, Forum -- the magnificent complex built by the emperor features a short tour.
    Tabularium, Forum -- this massive building at the foot of the Capitoline Hill houses the archives of the Roman state.
    Moneta, Capitoline -- Rome’s official moneyers keep their offices next to the Temple of Juno. A workshop for the minting of coins is open to visitors with official permission to enter.
    Villa Publica, Campus Martius -- the building of the censors used for the registration of all citizens during a census. A guide to the census is maintained here for public awareness of the process.
    Basilica Neptuni, Campus Martius -- public building with office space for collegio and associations located in Rome. The building also contains a museum celebrating the Battle of Actium and the works of Marcus Agrippa. Open daily.

Military and Defense

    The Arx, Capitoline -- Rome’s fortress on the northern peak of the Capitoline Hill sheltered Senate and citizens during the invasion of the Gauls. A flock descended from the famous geese still lives in the grounds of Juno’s temple.
    Navalia docks, Campus Martius -- the main military dockyard along the Tiber with a superb museum on the history and development of the Roman navy.
    Castra Praetoria, Quirinal -- the fortress of the imperial bodyguard is open for tours of its major buildings for those with an approved pass. Tours start from the Porta Praetoria.
    Armilustrium, Aventine -- the assembly point for lustration of arms in October. Historians of the early kings may choose to visit the tomb of Titus Tatius.

Monuments

    Fornix Fabianus, Forum -- the monumental arch on the Sacra Via erected to commemorate victory over the Allobroges.
    Statuae equestres, Forum -- erected to commemorate the victorious consuls of the great war with the Latins.
    City Marker, Forum -- a whimsical plaque commemorates a famous local raven.
    Arcus Claudii, Campus Martius -- the grand triumphal arch celebrating the conquest of Britannia by the Emperor Claudius. The arch is located at the Aqua Virgo span over the Via Flaminia.
    Arcus Triumphalis, Capitoline -- the monument dedicated in celebration of victory over the Parthians in the reign of Nero. Located inter duos lucos.
    Golden Dolphin gif Vespasianus Monument, Quirinal -- a monument dedicated to the career and achievements of Vespasianus Augustus Caesar. Archives here cover the major events of the troubled year of Vespasianus’ accession.

Temples and Shrines

Omnium

    Auguraculum, Capitoline -- this permanent templum on the Capitoline mount is where Numa received the sign to become Rome’s third king. The College of Augurs uses this site for the taking of state auspices. Entry by permission only.
    Porticus Deorum Consentium, Forum -- this beautiful building on the Forum houses information on our City’s beloved Gods.
    Pantheon, Campus Martius -- built by Agrippa in honor of the gens Iulia and dedicated in particular to Mars and Venus, the most prominent of the ancestral deities of that family.
    Sacrarium Argei, Subura -- twenty-seven of these argei, or shrines, are located around Rome, built by Numa Pompilius for religious services and purification ceremonies. These shrines mark the annual mid-March route of the flamen dialis and Vestal Virgins before they throw the straw figures from the shrines into the Tiber.

Di Consentes:

    Shrine of Jupiter Fagutalis, Esquiline -- a small shrine of Jupiter located in the ancient beech grove of the Oppian Hill.
    Temple of Juno Moneta Regina, Capitoline -- gracing the Arx, the temple was built after the war with the Aurunci fulfilling a vow of L. Furius Camillus. The sacred geese of this temple warned of the attack by the Gauls and the goddess herself has given warning before earthquakes. The first Roman coins were minted at this temple. Informative.
    Temple of Juno Regina, Aventine -- a beautiful temple dedicated to Juno after the conquest of Veii. A good overview of the goddess’ importance.
    Aedes Junonis Lucina, Esquiline -- this shrine dedicated to the goddess as the guardian of childbirth is the site of the annual Matronalia feast for Roman mothers.
    Temple of Minerva Aventinensis, Aventine -- the temple to this major goddess on the Aventine offers an informative brochure for visitors.
    Delubrum Menervae Captae, Caelian -- a small shrine to the goddess Minerva of Falerii.
    Tour of the Temple of Mars Gradivus along the Via Appia south of the Caelian Hill. Features a complete calendar of festivals related to Mars.
    Altar of Mars, Campus Martius -- the ancient shrine dedicated to Mars outside the city’s walls. This site has a museum and historical center dedicated to Rome’s legions.
    Curia Saliorum, Palatine -- headquarters and offices for the Salii priests. The building also houses a sacrarium dedicated to Mars.
    Temple of Diana Aventinensis, Aventine -- the ancient temple built to unify the Latins. Offers an informative, comprehensive guide to the goddess’ importance to Rome.
    Golden Dolphin gif Aedes Apollo Palatinus, Palatine -- the magnificent marble temple dedicated to Apollo. The extensive galleries house a number of famous works of art and treasures from across the Empire. A separate library houses a collection of reading material for scholars.
    House of Vesta, Forum -- this complex houses the shrine of Vesta in which the sacred eternal fire is kept lit (closed to visitors), as well as the living quarters, offices, and archives of the Vestal Virgins.
    Golden Dolphin gif Tour of the portions of the House of Vesta, Forum open to the public covers the history of the Vestals and the significance of the ancient shrine. Led by one of the Vestal Virgins by appointment.
    Temple of Mercury Sobrius, Subura -- a small shrine to the “sober” Mercury with an interesting past.

Di Indigetes:

    Temple of Vediovis, Capitoline -- the temple to this god commemorates victory over the Boii Gauls and marks the entrance to Rome’s sacred precincts on the Capitol.
    Ianus Geminus, Forum -- the shrine to the god of beginnings spans the Sacra Via. The doors of this temple are a traditional indicator of peace when they are closed.
    Aedes Lares Praestites, Forum -- this austere temple for Rome’s civic Lares stands summa Sacra Via.
    Ara of Ops Augusta, Forum -- an altar for public worship of the goddess of fertility and abundance dedicated by Caesar Augustus.
    Shrine of Bona Dea, Aventine -- a shrine dedicated to the goddess of fertility worshipped by women. Offers an informative tour.
    Lucus Deae Diae, Aventine -- the sacred grove and shrine of Dea Dia. Sacrifices are offered here by the Fratres Arvales during the Ambarvalia.
    Oracle of Faunus, Aventine -- an oracle and shrine in this hidden grove offers prophetic guidance to those making the proper sacrifice; purification and fertility may result if the god is appeased.
    Grove of the Furies, Aventine -- this isolated grove consecrated to the Furies contains an altar for offerings from those seeking either mercy or vengeance.
    Temple of Libertas, Aventine -- a small temple dedicated to the goddess of Liberty. The building contains a shrine to the goddess and a public library houses the archives of celebrated Symposium guests of the Roman state.
    Aedes Tellus, Esquiline -- the temple of mother Earth welcomes sacrifices for fertility and healthy crops. A large painted chamber is occasionally used for meetings of the Senate.
    Solarium Horologium, Quirinal -- this small shrine dedicated to the Sun is set within a park adorned with solaria. Visitors can easily count the hours using the public display.
    Festival Grove of Anna Perenna, Campus Martius -- a frolicking picnic for Rome’s plebeians is celebrated for the goddess of the returning year at this grove along the Via Flaminia on the Ides of March.

Di Novensides:

    Temple of Castor and Pollux, Forum -- a famous and beautiful building marking the southeast corner of the Forum. Dedicated to the twins Castor and Pollux in gratitude for Rome’s victory over the Latins, it has also often been used by the Senate for meetings.
    Aedes Deorum Penatium, Forum -- located beside the Sacra Via, this small temple features a portico decorated in celebration of Aeneas’ rescue of his father Anchises and the great gods of Troy.
    Temple of Bacchus, Aventine -- a small temple dedicated to this god, whose celebrations have been controversial in Rome.
    Temple of Hercules Victor, Aventine -- a beautiful, circular-shaped temple to the great hero includes a quiz on Rome’s topography. Located in the Forum Boarium.
    Temple of Hercules Fundanius, Quirinal -- this small temple is dedicated to Hercules to commemorate his slaying of the giant Cacus. The altar is noted for receiving the arms of retiring gladiators as offerings to Hercules.
    Temple of Isis, Aventine -- a beautiful temple built for this Eastern goddess outside the Pomerium.
    Synagogue of the Subura, Subura -- house of worship and active community center for members of this Eastern cult in Rome.
    Temple of the Deified Julius, Forum -- temple dedicated to the deified Julius Caesar.
    Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, Forum -- elegant temple dedicated to the emperor and his wife.
    Templum Gentis Flaviae, Quirinal -- a temple dedicated to the memory of the deified Flavian emperors. Located along the Alta Semita.

Memorial Tombs:

    Aedes Memoriae, Forum -- dedicated to the memory of Caius Fabius by his friends.
    Lararium of the Gens Aemilia, Esquiline -- memorial dedicated to the gens Aemiliae, their ancestors, and contributions to Rome.
    Sepulcrum of the Gens Flaviae, Esquiline -- memorial to the gens Flaviae with a record of their illustrious ancestors.
    Sepulcrum C. Cestius, Aventine -- unusual memorial tomb of Caius Cestius, praetor and tribune of the plebs, in the shape of a pyramid.
    Sepulcri, Campus Martius -- memorial tombs along the Via Flaminia.

Natural Landmarks

    Lupercal Cave, Palatine -- ancient site of fertility and purification rituals associated with Rome’s Lupercalia, honoring the City’s legendary past.
    Tarpeian Rock , Capitoline -- overlooking a steep drop at the southwest corner of the Capitoline Hill, this natural outcropping is where condemned prisoners were flung to their deaths in ancient days.

Museums, Galleries, Historic Houses

    Golden Dolphin gif Porticus Argonautarum, Campus Martius -- a shaded colonnade commemorating the legend of Jason and the Argonauts and their voyage to find the Golden Fleece. Rome’s meeting place for citizens interested in the culture of Hellas.
    Porticus Meleagri, Campus Martius -- art and statuary dedicated to the hero Meleager and the slaying of the Calydonian Boar. Opposite the Porticus Argonautarum at the Saepta.
    Domus Victoria -- the domus of the consul L. Furius Purpureo preserved as a memorial of his career.
    Hut of Romulus, Palatine -- a retelling of the story of Romulus and Remus and the origins of Rome is performed for guests at the site of Romulus’ original home.
    Domus M. Caelii Rufi, Palatine -- the residence of the prominent advocate and politician.
    Villa of Ummidia Quadratilla, Aventine -- this home of a wealthy widow also contains a gallery of the city’s best artworks. Open to the public daily.
    Domus Valeriorum, Caelian -- ancestral home of the illustrious gens Valeria. The domus provides a historical gallery and meeting place for members of the clan.
    Domus Africae, Caelian -- a private institution dedicated to study of the African provinces. Guests may visit the art collection or utilize the library of works on Africa.
    Villa of Kallistos Alexandros, Esquiline -- the lavish public rooms in the residence of this foreign prince are open to the Roman public.
    Turris Mamilia, Subura -- this tower commemorating the gens Mamilia is a landmark in its Subura neighborhood.

Parks and Gardens

    Inter duos lucos, Capitoline -- an open area between the twin summits of the Capitoline Hill. The ancient enclosure of Romulus’ Asylum is located here. Open to the public.
    Platonensis Aventinus, Aventine -- a park with ponds and beds of flowers along walkways laid out under plane trees provides a place to relax and escape the summer heat.
    Crassus’ Secret Retreat, Esquiline -- a tranquil patrician garden open to the public with a pavilion housing a guest book for comment and quotations.
    Didius’ Vivarium, located near the Aurelian Wall at the Praetorian Camp – the best display of exotic and unusual animals anywhere in Rome or the provinces!.
    Gardens of Kallistos, Esquiline -- a gift to the people of Rome, this estate features decorative public gardens and a nymphaeum.
    Golden Dolphin gif Horti Maecenatis, Esquiline -- public gardens laid out to beautify this long-neglected district.
    Horti Sallustiani, Quirinal -- the extensive gardens created by Sallust with numerous imperial additions. Public gardens, nymphaea, and a hippodrome provide a lovely setting for leisure in the city.
    Trigarium, Campus Martius -- open fields along the Tiber for horse training, riding, and chariot practice.

Walking Tours

    Golden Dolphin gif Summa Sacra Via & Sacra Via Walking Tour -- see the sights along this oldest and grandest of Rome’s streets from temples to exclusive shops.
    Golden Dolphin gif Aventine Walking Tour -- offers a short, lively overview of the district with a good view from the top of the hill.

Shopping

Shopping Centers

    Golden Dolphin gif Macellum, Subura -- this ancient market in its restored splendor offers a variety of fresh food products for the family table or dinner party.
    Porticus Aemilia, Aventine -- recently expanded, paved shopping center along the Tiber. Vendors seeking space should apply at the Administrative Office in Nave I.
    Campus Lanatarius, Aventine -- Rome’s wool market is located in a field near the Porta Naevia. Stalls are available for traders in wool and wool-working implements, but only for members of related collegia.

Books

    Golden Dolphin gif Amazonia, Aventine -- features a wide selection of Roman, Greek, and other authors on books, scrolls, papyri, and parchments. A well-stocked shop for the serious collector.

Cloth

    Murrius Brothers Purpurarii, Forum -- dealers in purple cloth and dye. The brothers offer togae, tunicae, stolae, and custom orders dyed in true Tyrian purple.
    Texta Orientis, Aventine -- fine fabrics, tapestries, and curtains imported from the East. This shop features a selection of tunics, sheets, and home furnishings in the latest styles.

Footwear

Jewelry and Gifts

    Curio’s Gift & Deco Shop, Subura -- a small shop specializing in hand-crafted items. The Saturnalia department has unique gifts for the holiday.
    Domus Depot’s Ye Olde Gift Shoppe, Aventine -- features a variety of flowers, gift baskets and festival presents for all occasions.
    Golden Dolphin gif Taberna Gemmaria, Aventine -- offers a tasteful selection of fine jewelry for men and women. The best selection of rings, bracelets, and jewels in Rome. Fourth shop in the Green Turtle Market, Vicus Portae Trigeminae.

Furniture/Furnishings

    Aemilii Fine Furniture and Gallery, Aventine -- a selection of furniture, sculpture, and paintings for the finest homes.
    Golden Dolphin gif Domus Depot -- The place for decorating tips, free interior design options, and helpful, friendly advice on building the domus of your dreams.

Health and Beauty Supplies

Food

    Agrippinilla’s Garum Shop, Subura -- sells a variety of quality garum sauces made from family recipes.
    Butcher’s Block, in the Macellum, Subura -- offers fresh cuts of meat trimmed to order.
    Higgledy Piggledy, in the Macellum, Subura -- supplies Gaulish-style hams from Parma in Gallia Togata.
    Mercator Flavii, Post I, Aventine - sells Egyptian grain to retail and wholesale customers.
    Mercator Flavii, Post II, Subura -- supplies strong and flavorful garum sauces from Italy and the provinces.
    Oleum et Bacca, in the Macellum, Subura -- fine olive oils from Venafrum and Spain, as well as fresh, salted, and preserved olives.
    Panis Primis, Subura -- makes panis primis, secundus, and rusticus daily, as well as the popular libae, sweet honey cakes.
    Piscatorium, in the Macellum, Subura -- fresh fish, mussels, eels, and squid in the tholos.
    The Ripe ‘n’ Ready Market, in the Macellum, Subura -- this vendor offers a range of fresh produce, dried fruits, and eggs. Fresh cheeses and honey from local farms are also available. Prepared foods include soups and fresh bread and cakes.
    Taberna Vitis Vinifera, Quirinal -- a clean shop specializing in quality fruit shipped from across the empire. Features a selection of choice figs, olives, and grapes.
    Storehouse of the Salt Traders, Forum -- supplies salt to businesses, temples, and citizens; historical exhibit on salt and its uses now open to the public.

Wine

    The Vintnery at The Loving Cup, Aventine -- stocks a selection of fine wines from Italy and Greece.
    Golden Dolphin gif Vitis Vinifera, Subura -- stocks a wide selection of fine wines from throughout the Roman world and the unusual mead imported from Germania.

Animals

    Aequimelium, Capitoline -- Sabine lambs are sold for Rome’s spring festivals in this open area of the Capitoline Hill.

Slaves

Spectator Sports

    Circus Maximus, Aventine – offers racing, games, and shows in the world’s most spectacular venue! Check the box office for a current schedule of events.
    Golden Dolphin gif Take the Circus guided tour for an amazing behind-the-scenes view and colorful stories about the Circus’ history. Leaves from the foot of the Palatine Hill.
    Campus Equiriorum, Campus Martius -- public fairgrounds for the Equirria festival horse races. Located along the Tiber bend.
    Flavian Amphitheater, the “Colosseum,” Subura -- Rome’s first permanent amphitheater built to house games and spectacles. Check the box office for currently scheduled performances.
    Ludus Gladiatorius, Subura -- the training grounds for the City’s gladiatorial combatants; offers information on the games and fan favorites.
    Ludus Matutinus, Subura -- training school for the hunters and bestiarii appearing in the Colosseum and other City arenas.

Entertainment/Night Life

    Teatro alla Sempronii, Esquiline -- a theater of the dramatic arts devoted to productions set during the Civil War and a play about an Egyptian princess named Aida.
    Theatrum Marcelli di Tempo, Forum -- provides background on Roman theater traditions by a performer.

Lupanares

    Golden Dolphin gif Ad Sororis, Subura -- a lively place for intimate private encounters with a selection of talented professionals. Located next to the Temple of Venus.
    The Bent Phallic, Caelian -- offers efficient service at a convenient location near the Appian Way.
    Willing Strumpet Brothel, Capitoline -- a house devoted to the history of Roman prostitution.

Personal Services

    Domus Depot Urban Builder’s Guild, Aventine -- a confederation of Roman citizens offering advice on building better domus and neighborhood structures.
    Pictures Library, Esquiline -- a collection of pictures and artifacts for decorating domus and other properties.
    Fullonica Lucretia, Aventine -- at four sestertii per tunic, Rome’s most affordable quality cleaners.
    Schola & Ecclesia, Caelian -- provides a meeting place for education in the Christos cult.
    Golden Dolphin gif The School, Subura -- Greek tutor provides the basics in reading and writing, mathematics, poetry and Roman history.
    Golden Dolphin gif Thermas Syres et Decianas, Aventine -- a tastefully designed, authentic bath complex sure to please any Roman, located on the Vicus Sibani Salientis, near the Fountain.
    Therma Novatianae, Subura -- these baths in the Vicus Patricius feature the full course of immersion basins and a palaestra for exercise.

September 2 , 2008
Legacies Posted at 09:00 EST
On my way to the Campus Martius for the commemoration of the anniversary of Actium, I had cause to reflect on the presence of the past we see every day in Rome. We are a city of families. Relations and connections by marriage affect political alliances and business dealings. The monuments of many of the great families of Rome decorate the city and stand as records of their accomplishments.

Outside the Servian wall in the Esquiline regio, funeral monuments and tombs honor the illustrious ancestors of the great houses. For example, the gens Flavia has its Sepulcrum and the gens Aemilia has its Lararium. These family tombs are adorned with plaques or engraved stele that recall the histories of each of these ancient gentes.

In the center of the city, numerous monuments and public works have been set up to honor the service famous ancestors. In the Forum, the patron Mauricius Fabius has just finished restoring the Fornix Fabianus, a triumphal arch erected for his ancestor’s victory over the Allobroges. The restoration has also managed to correct a number of false allegations made in the past in the wake of the political turmoil stirred up by the Gracchi. Across the Forum from the bank, the elegant Basilica Aemilia is an example of a public building erected and maintained by one of the leading families of Rome out of generosity to the state.

My own family has its monuments in Rome as well. On my way to the bank, I often see the Statuae Equestres dedicated to the consuls of 416 A.U.C. – one of them a Furius – for a famous victory over the Latins. They were the first equestrian statues in Rome. Over on the Palatine Hill, near my cousin Gaius’ home, the family has preserved the Domus Victoria of Lucius Furius Purpureo as a museum so that his career of service is not forgotten. On the Capitoline Hill, the Temple of Vediovis vowed by Purpureo for victory over the Boii Gauls stands inter duos lucos. On the Aventine, the dictator Marcus Furius Camillus erected the Temple of Juno Regina to receive the goddess brought from Veii. Camillus’ son Lucius had the Temple of Juno Moneta Regina erected on the Capitol to fulfill his vow made in battle with the Aurunci.

The Campus Martius itself is another type of legacy. This area beyond the northwestern stretch of the Servian Wall is the patrimony of the Roman state, which took possession of this land owned by the Tarquins when the Republic was created. The open spaces of the campus were used for exercising troops and training horses for much of the republican era. Lately, a number of public buildings and monuments have been constructed in the district, so that it is now more developed.

The great complex of buildings erected by Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa are the physical embodiment of the restoration of peace and prosperity after the years of civil war that ended the Roman Republic. The Pantheon of the gods, the restored Saepta and its display of state artworks, and the baths and stagnum donated to the public by Agrippa himself form parts of this complex.

Another building is the Portico of the Argonauts, which I restored and dedicated to the public last year. The story of Jason and the quest for the Golden Fleece is a popular subject in Rome, and the building has had many visitors. The curator, the learned Critias of Naxos, gave me a tour and a personal viewing of some of the artwork commissioned for display. We also visited the artifacts kept as part of the collection of the neighboring Porticus Meleagri.

The main reason for visiting the Campus Martius, however, was a tour of the Museum of Actium. The exhibit is located in a wing of the Basilica Neptuni and well worth the time. No doubt many Romans will pause to reflect on the significance of this battle, fought on this day – a.d. IV Nones Septembres – in 784 A.U.C. What would Rome be like had not Augustus and his commander Agrippa prevailed against Antonius and the Egyptian queen?

July 24 , 2008
Grain and Salt Posted at 15:00 EST
The population of a great city like Rome consumes enormous quantities of food. My cousins and I finance a number of commodity investments at our bank. We also make our own investments through a number of state contracts and investments in property. Many of the city’s independent financiers and traders in commodities meet near the Ianus Geminus to arrange terms. Just this week, I made a deal with a trader in grain from Utica for a share of this year’s harvest from several estates.

Each year, tens of millions of modii of grain are imported to the city. The bulk of Rome’s grain is imported from Egypt, Africa, and Sicily. One can see the ships and barges unloading, almost continuously, at the docks along the Tiber. They are especially numerous near the warehouses and granaries of the Emporium at the base of the Aventine Hill. This is where many of the major private dealers in grain, like the Mercator Flavii, Post I store the grain they sell to customers throughout the city. Smaller vendors like the popular bakers of Panis Primis in the Subura district depend on regular grain supplies to stay open.

The prospects for the harvest and the fate of the grain fleets are major concerns, and I often see citizens of all classes making offerings to the deities who preside over our security. Even merchants from the Forum make offerings at the temple of Saturn or at the nearby Arae of the Goddesses Ops Augusta and Ceres Mater.

Another commodity vital to the life of the city is salt. My cousins and I operate a consortium to lease state saltworks near Ostia. The Storehouse of the Salt Traders we operate in Rome supplies salt to businesses, temples, and citizens.

Salt is used to flavor many Roman foods, especially through the use of sauces like garum. This favored sauce made from fermented fish parts is widely popular, and a number of manufacturers sell garum to the public for those that do not make it themselves. Some shops specialize in family recipes like those of Agrippinilla’s Garum Shop, while others import varieties from around the Roman World like those available at Mercator Flavii, Post II.

Many other foods depend on salt for their production or curing, such as ham, sausage, and cheese. Salted and preserved pork like the Gaulish-style hams of Higgledy Piggledy, in the Macellum, are quite popular in Rome.

Our salt production and trading company has been quite profitable. We also operate a branch of the bank in Ostia to handle trade accounts and other business for customers. Lately, we have been considering opening another branch along the Via Salaria, the ancient salt trading route to the northeast of Rome. I expect this to happen soon.

July 8 , 2008
Return to Rome Posted at 23:00 EST
After hosting my brother and his family at my new country estate near Tusculum, we all traveled to Rome to be in town for the ludi Apollinares. It is an easy journey along the Viae Latina and Appia, even though we proceeded at a quite slow pace due to the large retinue of servants, furniture, and supplies in our party.

Approaching the city through the Capena district, we passed the ancient Aedes Mars Gradivus. Unfortunately the great temple was damaged in an earthquake four months ago, and the city magistrates still have not carried out repairs. What is Rome coming to?

Turning left inside the gate, we headed to my house on the Aventine Hill near the Loretum. The great Temple of Diana Aventinensis stands nearby as well, originally built as a symbol of unity among the Latins, although today it is often visited by slaves and freedmen.

Setting the household in order took a few days. Our tunicae and togae were immediately sent to the Fullonica Lucretia, so that they would be clean and bright for the races and visiting friends during the festival. My sister-in-law also sent orders to Texta Orientis for a variety of napkins and linen. This was followed by visits to Beauty’s Herb and Ointment Tabernae, the Taberna Gemmaria, Domus Depot’s Ye Olde Gift Shoppe. One should never underestimate the capacity of a Roman woman to shop, because she also spent most of a day at the display halls of the Porticus Aemilia. Strangely, after many hours at each place, she returned with only a small number of purchases.

Although my brother went along with his wife to the Porticus Aemilia because of the crowds, he avoided having to visit the smaller boutiques. I joined him, instead, on a trip to the Servilius Specialty Slave Market to look for a capable librarius to help with his business accounts or a Greek tutor for the boys. Although we did not find any suitable slaves on the day, the manager promised to see what he could find from other dealers.

My nephew was eager to visit the Grove of the Furies, probably inspired by the scroll of Aeschylus’s Eumenides that I had given him last year. His mother was not at all pleased with the idea of venturing into such a haunting place. However, my brother, nephews, and I walked through the quiet grove, noticing nothing more frightening than a number of birds, squirrels, and a hedgehog. We did, of course, leave an offering of juniper boughs and honey. The next day, everyone went along for a walk through the Platonensis Aventinus. This park was more pleasing to the lady of my brother because of the elegant plane trees and floral arrangements along the paths.

Finally, the day of the games to Apollo arrived. The entire household was awake early and getting dressed and coifed in a state of nervous anticipation. I even gave my household the rest of the day to attend, and a modest allotment of funds so they could join in the fun of betting on the contests.

My cousins Gauis and Lucius arrived early, so that we could get good seats in the equestrian area. What can one say of the magnificence of the Circus Maximus. Surely, no grander edifice exists anywhere in the world! An enormous crowd filled the grandstands cheering at the magnificent spectacle of the pompa. The Blues put on a good performance in the early races, but our favorite Greens were unbeatable when The Dacian or Menander had the reigns. Unfortunately, Dionysus’s leg injury has kept him in the stables yet again, but the other horses were in good form.

We ate a variety of food from the many vendors between races, and I think everyone had a wonderful time. A few wagers won definitely lightens the mood! At the end of the day, the boys were so tired, they could hardly walk up the hill to my home.

First-time visitors to Rome should read the history of the Circus prepared by the patron Fabricius Flavius or take the guided tour led by servants of the patron Senex Caecilius. Both are well worth the time!

July 16 , 2007
The Water of Rome Posted at 00:00 EST
Off to the Subura for a meeting with my cousin Gaius and two aediles, one plebeian and one curule. Gaius says there is some matter about the stone received from a publican and the release of payments for structural repairs.

Traveling from the Forum, I was again struck by the sight of the monumental Flavian Amphitheater. This building will astonish many visitors when they see it for the first time. This is the first permanent amphitheater in Rome, built to provide spectacular shows and games for the people of Rome. The patron Fabricius Flavius has provided an extensively documented program for visitors to the games.

There was new construction around the site of a school built by the Praefect Titus Pullo Lupus for the proper training of the athletes in Rome’s gladiatorial contests. This Ludus Gladiatorus is located very near the Flavian Amphitheater.

Gaius was waiting with the aediles when I arrived at the Praefectura Urbana, our meeting place. From here, we left to inspect the water projects in the Subura.

Our first stop was the Castellum Divisiorum of the Aqua Marcia. This is a large distribution basin for fresh water brought to Rome from the springs in Subiaco in the mountains to the east.

The means by which Rome brings water to the city and flushes it out again are the true wonders of the world. It was Dionysius of Halicarnassus who said that the three great works of Rome are its aqueducts, paved roads, and sewers. Combined with the Aqua Marcia, the other great aqueducts of the City would stretch for hundreds of milia passuum from Rome. The curator aquarum Julius Sextus Frontinus compared the City’s water systems with the Pyramids and the “useless, though famous” works of the Greeks. The Patron Senex Caecilius has also written extensively about both the aqueducts and sewers.

After inspecting work on the Castellum, we walked to the nearby entrance vault of the Crypta Suburae. This is the underground vault of the Cloaca Maxima, which drains the City of ground and waste water. We viewed the work repairing walls of the vault and determined that the aediles were satisfied.

After touring the works at both locations and signing documents, Gaius and I made our way to The Bacchus Taverna to refresh ourselves. After a few hours in the sun and roaming down inside the crypt, we were very thirsty and a bit hungry. The taverna serves a nice fresh soup, with sausages on the side. We also ate some cheese and bread and drank a flavorful honeyed wine.

Gaius struck up a conversation with a man at a nearby table who was reading a scroll of Horace. The fellow appeared to be a typical modestly dressed freedman of the district. He turned out to be a Greek by the name of Apollodorus Ulpius. He has a nearby school for education in the basics of reading and writing, some poetry, and the history of Livy. The School prepares the poor boys of the Subura for work in their family trades or in many cases for the legions, where the lads have better opportunities than the streets of Rome.

After our snack, we headed home, although we made a short stop at Signor’s Sandal and Boot Shop along the Clivus Argiletum. While I made an order for red sandals with a decorative silver inlay, Gaius went to the nearby Mercator Flavii to see if there was any garum made from Sicily bluefin.

After leaving Gaius near the Forum, I hurried back up the Aventine Hill to visit the baths before my evening meal. Then a quiet evening at home answering letters from friends.

July 8 , 2007
A Day at the Races Posted at 12:00 EST
This week I have been playing host for my brother Sextus and his family, up from Campania to attend the ludi Apollinares. During the day, my brother and I often were out on business around the City, but I arranged an escort for his wife to safely tour the area. The groves and gardens of the Platonensis Aventinus, for example, are a lovely retreat from the summer heat of Rome, provided by the patron Marcus Tiberius Claudius. I know that the lady also visited the specialty shops (and spent a great deal of money) at Beauty’s Tabernae, Aemilii Fine Furnishings, Texta Orientis, and the Taberna Gemmaria.

In the afternoon, Sextus and I wandered the area as well, stopping for refreshments at the friendly Sign of the Owl tavern or browsing at the excellent Amazonia bookshop owned by my friend, the patron Mauricius Fabius. Sextus found a scroll of Aeschylus’s Eumenides for his son’s toga ceremony later in the year.

There are many well-tended homes on the Aventine Hill, and it is a wonderful place to live with elegant neighborhoods not far from a variety of shops and temples.

The Circus Maximus is a spectacular venue for spectacles and entertainments which has been the pride of Rome since ancient times. The first-time visitor will be awed by the size of this enormous complex. The program prepared by the patron Fabricius Flavius gives an excellent history of this famous site. Many people will enjoy taking the guided tour of the Circus organized by servants of the patron Senex Caecilius which departs from the foot of the Palatine Hill.

We went early to get good seating and to watch the spectacle of the pompa, but the crowds were already quite dense. It seems as though half of Rome shows up when the best horses and aurigae are racing, and the mob cheers like Gauls before a battle! The Greens had some excellent horses from Hispania, and our old favorite Dionysus did quite well. We went home late in the day tired and happy, but a little richer from our wagers. A very pleasing day indeed.

* A note to readers. Previous journal entries have been updated and hyperlinks added. Enjoy! *

July 1 , 2007
A Day in the Subura Posted at 07:00 EST
My neighbor convinced me to accompany him to the Viminal Hill to meet with the buyer of an insula he is selling in order to buy some land in Campania. Although he had two rather large guards along when he arrived with his lectica, I took one of my Gauls as well, as we would be some time in the Subura. Say a prayer to Fortuna, of course, but don’t be a fool!

Despite the Subura’s reputation with some of the upper classes, the district is kept in good order by its current praefect, Titus Pullo Lupus. There is, in fact, a wonderful street map available to visitors at the praefect’s office.

As we came past the Temple of Venus, we passed one source of the praefect’s wealth. The establishment of “the sisters” provides a service found useful by many men of the City, patricians and plebs alike. Anyone interested in an education in Rome’s carnal entertainments should visit this temple of Venus.

My friend’s insula stood not far from one of the ancient shrines built by Numa Pompilius. These shrines mark the places for the annual procession led by the flamen dialis and his wife, along with the Vestal Virgins. The shrine I visited has a commemorative guide to this event provided by the Patron Senex Caecilius.

As everyone knows, the Subura is famous for its many small shops of all varieties. After our business on the Viminal was completed, we took the opportunity to pick up a few items in the area. My cousin Gaius is fond of the garum made from fresh mackerel, and I managed to pick up a pot of an excellent recipe at Agrippinilla’s Garum Shop.

My friend and I were enticed to visit Panis Primis by the smell of fresh-baked bread and cakes wafting through the air. The honey cakes were excellent and certainly justify the title of “Rome’s Best Bakery.” This shop stands not far from another of the Subura’s entertainment venues, the Courtesan’s Town House. It is reputed to provide a good introduction to the personal entertainment services available in the City.

We also stopped at another of the praefect’s business ventures, the Vitis Vinifera to buy some wine. This vintnery offers a wide selection of good varietals. I ordered some Setinum and well-aged Alban to be delivered, and my friend was delighted to find a Tarraco wine he was fond of from his days in military service in Hispania.

After making our purchases, we headed through the crowds toward the Clivus Argiletus to make our way home through the Forum. On the way, we decided to stop at the Macellum, the ancient market located just northeast of the Forum. Trade at this market has been revived in recent years by the Patron Senex Caecilius. There are a number of small tabernae here, including a butcher and one selling exotic spices from Asia. The piscatorium had some Lucrine oysters that looked particularly tempting.

After that we made our way home. Finally, a long day finished and home again.

June 16 , 2007
Crossing the Hills of Rome Posted at 08:00 EST
Invited to a dinner party by a friend who lives on Mons Esquilinus. I took a leisurely ride over by lectica, enjoying some of the sights along the way -- at least when my bearers didn't jostle too much!

Passing over the Palatine Hill, one notices the well-maintained order kept by the praefect Valeria Casta Valerius. There are many homes and beautiful villas built here by leading citizens and patrons of Rome.

One interesting place of note in this area is the traditional Lupercal Cave, protected by a surrounding preserve established by the generous Patroness Livia Servilia.

After briefly crossing through the Collis Caelia, we came to the Esquiline district and began the climb toward my friend's home. Fortunately, my bearers are rather large Gauls!

This district is also the home of several large homes and luxury villas of wealthy citizens and patrons. The praefect of this district, the Patron Sextus Crassus, has kept the Esquiline Hill clean and ordered. There is even a good map of the district available from the praefect's office.

Passing through the Esquiline neighborhoods, there are a few notable points of interest to the casual traveler. First, the praefect himself has built a small park or Secret Retreat a short way down the clivus from his hilltop estate. There are gardens and grape arbors for visitors to wander and benches on which to rest and contemplate the spectacular view. Visitors are invited to leave a quote in the guestbook to amuse or enlighten others.

Next, two of Rome's most illustrious families have monuments here. The Sepulcrum of the Gens Flaviae and the Lararium of the Gens Aemilia record the histories and legacies of these important families.

My friend's dinner was excellent and accompanied with some excellent wine from an estate near Pompeii. The Greek poet who performed afterwards did go on quite a while, however!







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