On a narrow isthmus between the twin lochs of Harray and Stenness, a mile southeast of the Ring of Brodgar and half a mile west of Maes Howe, lie the awe-inspiring ruins of a circle henge built around 2960 BC. Contemporary with Skara Brae, only six miles away, this ring of stones was undoubtedly a gathering place for trade and ritual. Just to the northwest of the circle, the imposing Watch Stone, nearly six meters (19 feet) tall, still marks the edge of this ancient territory . The circle-henge itself originally consisted of twelve towering stones but only four remain standing today. Even with most of the stones gone, the ring weathered and the henge partially filled with dirt, Stenness is still breathtaking in its starkly primitive magnificence. The giant stones are visible for miles in every direction.

Imagine the labor involved in constructing this circle of stones. First, tons of solid rock were dug out to create the ditch that surrounds the ring of stones. Using only antler picks, stone tools and a few treasured levers made of wood, this task took months to complete. If fifty people worked at this from dawn to dusk every day, it would have taken six months just to carve out the ditch and form the bank. Then the twelve huge slabs, quarried out of Orkney sandstone, were dragged across the rugged landscape and erected in a perfect circle on the central plateau. Perhaps the builders used wooden sledges but this is speculation, since wood was scarce.

Remains of a curious little wooden mortuary house were found just inside of the northwest entrance to the Stenness ring. A cobbled path connected this hut to a rectangular stone hearth where seaweed was once burnt. Nearby pits filled with rich soil that contained the seeds of fruits and grains hint at ancient funeral rites, harvest and fertility ceremonies or annual offerings to the dead.

Just to the north of Stenness, a hole-stone known as the Stone of Odin once stood. Unfortunately it was ruined by a local landowner on Chistmas 1814. Captain MacKay, not a native Orcadian, decided that he was tired of plowing around the stones and having visitors trespass on his property. He set out to destoy the entire complex. The first stone he knocked down was the Stone of Odin. Couples used to seal their vows to each other by holding hands through its hole, in the tradition of many similar holestones throughout the British Isles. It ws also believed to have healing powers. Newborn babies were passed through the hole for good luck. Often offerings were left by the Odin Stone. MacKay's neighbors were so infuriated that they tried to burn his house down. He was stopped but not before he uprooted the Odin Stone, destroyed one of the megaliths and knocked another one down. For more on the Odin Stone, visit the excellent Orkneyjar heritage website.

In 1906, the State took over the Stones of Stenness. The one stone that Captain MacKay managed to knock down was restored to its place. Today only four of the Stenness Stones, only a third of the original number, are still standing. Even with only four, the site is visually stunning in its mysterious beauty.