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Maes Howe
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The moundlike Maes Howe is one of the finest passage graves in Europe.
About half a mile east of Stenness is Maes Howe. This moundlike structure is one of the finest passage graves in Europe. The corbelled roof is reminiscent of an ancient cathedral. Three mysterious side chambers are offset from the main chamber and the long, crooked entrance hall. Direct light enters here only at midwinter sunset.
There are many chambered tombs on the Orkney mainland and the northern isles, all of them built by neolithic farmers over 5,000 years ago. Some of the builders were from the Scottish mainland, others came across the short stretch of sea from Ireland. The number of bodies that were laid to rest in these tombs proves that these lands were once heavily populated. The size of the two great rings of stone that were built near Maes Howe - Stenness and Brodgar - must have encircled large gatherings of people who assembled there for community rituals. Clearly visible from Stenness, Maes Howe is the largest and most impressive chambered cairn in the Orkneys. Constructed around the same time as Stenness and Skara Brae, Maes Howe stands on ground that was cleared and leveled by the builders. It is surrounded by a bank and ditch. The mound itself is made mostly of packed stones and clay. Around the inner chamber is an additional layer of stones. The slabs that form the mound were set into place around 2700 BC by the careful skill of expert stonemasons, without the use of mortar. Today Maes Howe looks like a large grassy mound. Before it was excavated in 1861, it was cone-shaped with a hollow on top. In 1910 it was taken over by the State and the outer mound was reshaped. A concrete roof was added because the top was in danger of collapsing. On the walls of the tomb are one of the world's most extensive set of Viking runic inscriptions. Carvings of a dragon, snake and what could be an otter, seal or walrus are further evidence of Norse visitors. Since the surrounding bank of Maes Howe was found to be a reconstruction dated from the early Viking era on top of the original structure, the mound may have been used as shelter by the Norse during the 9th century. The graffiti style runes are dated 12th century. The mound is thought to have held some valuable artifacts, which were apparently taken by Viking raiders. A translation of one runic inscription reads: "A long time ago was a great treasure hidden here. Lucky will be he who can find the great fortune. Hákon single-handedly bore treasure from this howe." The only artifacts that were found in the 1861 excavation were horses' bones and a fragment of a human skull. After 5,000 years Maes Howe is still an impressive monument. Today, no one can tell the purpose of this cathedral-like structure but we can safely say that it was a sacred place used for solar ceremonies. There is a huge stone at the entrance that probably served as a door that could be shut from the inside, suggesting that rituals took place inside the chamber. Lacking any artifacts, it is impossible to even guess what went on in the chambers of Maes Howe. The only tangible clue that is left is the faithful illumination of the passageway and chamber by the rays of midwinter sunset. From mid-November through mid-January, the light of sunset enters the long passageway and illuminates the inner chamber. At Winter Solstice, rays of light reach all the way to the back wall. The passageway's floor is on an upward slope, allowing water to drain and pool at the doorway. The sunlight is reflected and enhanced by this pool. There are holes around the outside of Maes Howe that appear to be empty sockets for large standing stones. Where the stones have gone, or if they ever were actually set in place, remains a mystery that may never be complete again. For a look at Maes Howe, inside and out, click here. For a real treat, you can view the midwinter sunset illumination of Maes Howe on this Live Cam. |
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~ Table of Contents ~
Ynys Môn ( Isle of Anglesey)
Cill Dara Caer Gai Winter Solstice - Rebirth of the Sun Temair Luachra Brú na Bóinne LUGHNASADH: FEAST OF FIRST FRUITS Samhain: The Last Feast of Summer Clonycavan Man Lough Derg Changelings The Origins of Celtic Christianity and St. Patrick in Ireland In Search of the Real Myrddin, Mad Prophet and Poet Myth and Celtic Culture by Draoi-man Brigantes (David Drew) |
