The karakul may be the oldest of all domesticated sheep breeds. Archeological evidence indicates the existence of karakul lamb skins as early as 1400 B.C. The breeding of sheep inhabiting the oasis of Bukhara formed the basis of development for the “fur-bearing” karakul sheep breed. The sheep takes its name from Kara-Kul, “the black lake,” a village in Bukhara. The Bukharan oasis is a region of high altitude with scant desert vegetation and a limited water supply.
Karakuls are able to survive great extremes of heat and cold, from +115 to -33°F (+46 to -36°C), and can drink the highly salted water found in over 80 per cent of the pastures in Uzbekistan. These sheep are sometimes called “broadtail” or “fat-tail sheep,” because they store fat in their tails, an adaptation to survival in a harsh environment. Karakul forage up to 22 miles each day in search of food and water.
Over time, karakul shepherding spread to other parts of Central Asia, including Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, and Afghanistan. In the 20th century, karakul sheep were sold for breeding in Russia, the Ukraine, and Moldova, as well as South West Africa and Argentina. In the United States, karakuls were introduced for pelt production between 1908 and 1929. However, breeding stock was low, and U.S. breeders, in their eagerness to produce large quantities of pelts, introduced other breeds into the bloodlines. This resulted in pelts of inferior quality and eventually the industry and the flocks were dispersed. One source has called karakul the “ecological pelt,” because the grazing habits of the sheep are supposedly less damaging to the environment than those of other breeds.
Texture is the most important characteristic of broadtail and karakul pelts. The most valued qualities, such as durability, silkiness, and shape of curls are all concentrated in black karakul sheep. To preserve the gloss and curl of karakul fur, the lamb must be killed within a few days after birth. In the fur trade, it is desirable that the curls be distributed uniformly. Pelts are matched for size of curl, pattern, luster, and other qualities. Broadtail (fetal lamb) pelts have no true curls. The hair is shorter than that of karakul, with a wavy, flat pattern. This texture is often described as ‘watered silk’ or ‘moiré’ (from the french word moirer, to water).
Despite an apparent decline in broadtail/karakul production through the early 1990s, anti-fur activists still have reason for alarm. Broadtail and karakul have become very popular in recent years, with scores of top designers incorporating it into their ready-to-wear collections because it’s so lightweight and comfortable. It’s showing up everywhere in runway fashion shows -- not just in coats -- but in trims, skirts and suits. Broadtail, persian lamb, swakara, astrakhan, and karakul fashions - all from the very same animal - are mentioned everywhere in the fashion press in recent years.
According to one fashion report, “although mink is still the number one fur in the world there are others… which are finding favour. Astrakhan [karakul] and persian lamb [karakul]… [etc.]… are all popular.” Miuccia Prada and Carolina Herrera use broadtail in vests, cardigans, and suits. Michael Kors uses it for skirts and coats. Karl Lagerfeld has created “Persian lamb coats as thin as felt” - and probably broadtail. Claudio Merazzi, a boot and shoe designer, uses Persian lamb in a pair of his high boots. Even Ralph Lauren, not known for fur in his collections, has designed a strapless broadtail dress, plus jackets and pants. The list of designers using broadtail and karakul goes on and on and on.
Major retailers of karakul and broadtail in the United States include Macy’s, Bloomingdales, Lord & Taylor, Nieman Marcus, Nordstroms, Saks Fifth Avenue, Dolce & Gabbana, and Fendi. In London, no major retail chains have been found to carry this fur. But it can be found at several fur boutiques, including Ivan Furs, Paul Helfgott, and Calman Links in London’s fashionable Knightsbridge area.
The list of celebrities spotted wearing broadtail or karakul includes Madonna, Lisa Marie Presley, and Ivana Trump.
